I visited Iraq 20 years after British invasion - it completely changed my view
30.07.2023 - 15:39
/ manchestereveningnews.co.uk
It is summer in Erbil, Iraq, and all day, the dusty streets have been baking. In the punishing 40 degree heat anyone who can stays inside, and those who are out can only move with the pace the day allows.
But as dusk sets in, the city changes. In a vast beer garden the size of a football pitch, hundreds of tables are filled with people drinking, smoking, and laughing under the glow of the city lights. Twenty years on from the British invasion, this is the side of Iraq few are familiar with.
Growing up in the UK in the noughties, every mention of Iraq was in the context of war and conflict. During my teenage years the headlines shifted to the atrocities of the Islamic State group (ISIS), but the association was similar. This was not a safe place.
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But the reality of Erbil now, on a warm night in June 2023, is entirely different. Driving home on wide roads lined by illuminated Glenfidditch signs and overflowing shisha bars is a scene so alive it feels strange when we slow to pass a checkpoint guarded by armed peshmerga - reminders of this region’s troubled recent history.
I travelled to Kurdish Iraq with Manchester-based charity Mines Advisory Group (MAG) to report on the impact of landmines on communities here. Mass contamination of mines and unexploded ordnance in the region are remnants from successive bloody wars. The Iran - Iraq war of the 1980s, both Gulf wars, and ISIS improvised explosives used from 2014 - all have played their part in Iraq’s contamination.
In six days, my trip was a whirlwind tour of how the country is forced to live alongside its past. But I also saw the beauty of the land, the kindness of the