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A tiny cafe in Greater Manchester on an unassuming shopping parade has been given the Jay Rayner seal of approval
09.04.2023 - 13:21 / manchestereveningnews.co.uk
Food critic Jay Rayner had given his seal of approval to another Greater Manchester eatery - a Hong Kong style cafe located on an unassuming Salford shopping parade.
Sakura, on St Stephen Street, is described by Rayner as a "true taste of home" for Manchester's Chinese students, serving up comforting dishes for little more than a tenner. In his latest review for The Guardian, Rayner heaps praise on the 'tiny' cafe, where he finds diners "finding familiar comfort in rice bowls or steaming tureens of soup noodles".
After initially heading towards the Cheetham Hill restaurant of the same name - an all you can eat buffet where robots assist the waiting staff - Rayner realised his mistake and redirected his taxi to the Salford cafe, which opened towards the end of last year. Despite some menu options being unavailable due to the head chef's absence - no sweet and sour pork or no yang chow fried rice on this occasion - Rayner found plenty to tease his tastebuds.
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For £10, he gets the beef brisket and beef tendon curry, described as "rich and profoundly comforting". He writes: "The brisket is falling apart into the depths of a sauce which has clearly been the product of hours of slow reduction."
Roast chicken with homemade sauce arrives at the table as "big nuggets of the best fried chicken spritzed with chilli oil, on a bed of rice straight out of the rice cooker". Other dishes tested by the critic include boneless pork cutlets, instant noodles with spicy sauce and mapo tofu that comes served alongside some "very good" chicken wings.
When it comes to Sakura's sweet offerings, Rayner highlights two of the menu's comforting desserts. The first is
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