Street food long has been a key part of Los Angeles culture, in the past decade or so manifesting in a boom of food trucks surrounding office buildings by day and spots like Venice's Abbot Kinney Boulevard by night. Kogi's Roy Choi often has been credited as a leader of the food truck revolution since launching his Korean-Mexican fusion operation in 2008; 12 years later, he has watched as the industry took a profound hit during the COVID-19 pandemic.