Ojai’s The Dutchess Restaurant Brings Cali-Burmese Flavors From the Rustic Canyon Family
26.01.2022 - 20:39
/ variety.com
Pat Saperstein Deputy EditorReady to get out of town? If a short road trip out of L.A. is in order, Ojai’s restaurant scene is looking bright with the opening of The Dutchess from the Rustic Canyon family of restaurants. Combining a bakery, bar, pool table and full-service restaurant, it harnesses the talents of chef Saw Naing, formerly of Bouchon and Tallula’s, and baker Kelsey Brito, formerly of Huckleberry and Milo + Olive.Naing’s dinner menu focuses on the specialties of his native Myanmar — a cuisine that can be difficult to find in Southern California.
Full lunch and brunch menus are due in the next few weeks, but for now Brito’s pastries and coffee brighten up the mountain mornings.After Rustic Canyon owners Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan started a little farm in Ojai, launching The Dutchess was a natural addition to the exclusive, laid-back community. Naing had been doing Burmese pop-ups and selling spice blends and masala out of his apartment, but it wasn’t enough for him. “What I really wanted to cook was Burmese food, the food I grew up eating,” he says.
While Burmese restaurants in the U.S. tend to emphasize noodles and curries, Naing is perfecting his biriyani rice dish sealed with a puff-pastry top, his favorite meal growing up. “It’s all about spices, step by step.
You cover it and then you pray for it,” he says. “When you start eating that, you crack the puff pastry open, the cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and cumin just pop,” he explains.If you saw the “No Reservations” episode where Anthony Bourdain went to Rangoon, you might remember Bourdain interviewing a punk band and eating grilled meat skewers on the street. Naing put Rangoon 19 St.
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