N/naka, Exclusive L.A. Kaiseki Restaurant Seen on ‘Chef’s Table,’ Gets a Quietly Sexy Makeover
22.05.2024 - 00:55
/ variety.com
Pat Saperstein Deputy Editor For over a dozen years, n/naka chef Niki Nakayama has been revered among L.A. restaurant mavens and the Hollywood crowd alike as a master of the kaiseki style of dining — the elaborate Japanese interpretation of a seasonal tasting menu.
If you can snag a reservation, which isn’t always simple, it might be time for a return trip, since n/naka just unveiled a remodeled dining room that provides a quiet-luxury style backdrop for diners enjoying the 13-course, nearly four-hour kaiseki experience. Nakayama, who founded n/naka along with her sous-chef and wife Carole Iida-Nakayama, was featured on the first season of Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” in 2015 — the only female chef on that season — and the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars in 2019.
As their reputation grew, the unassuming spot on Overland Avenue in L.A.’s sleepy Palms neighborhood became one of the city’s most in-demand reservations. Back in February, n/naka welcomed the cast of “Shōgun” for a show-stopping dinner that related the menu’s courses to characters from the FX series.
It’s long been a favorite of stars, from Kiernan Shipka and Sophia Bush to Charlize Theron and Mindy Kaling. But now, after 13 years of building their influence one exquisitely-plated course at a time, it was time for a refresh of the intimate room that previously provided quite an austere setting compared to the jewel-like presentations on the plate.
Sure, the stately progression of kaiseki dining, unobtrusively knowledgable service and top-level ingredients were the point of the experience, not the décor, but now all the elements have been brought into harmony. The remodeled space is all golden wood, soft lighting and curved lines, creating an intimate
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