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What happened on an epic desert adventure in Oman's silent and otherworldly Empty Quarter

www.telegraph.co.uk

dishdasha), were waiting outside reception with a convoy of Toyota Land Cruiser 4x4s, the modern equivalent of a camel. It was obvious I was in good hands.

Nelson, who first came to Oman in 1991, is a former officer in the British Royal Marines and also served in the Royal Army of Oman's Desert Regiment in the 1990s.

He has been returning ever since, offering high-end, expedition-style camping safaris to its lesser-known corners.We made a quick detour to old Salalah's frankincense souk, where.

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