Dior Reimagines Feminist Fashion In History In Paris Show
02.03.2022 - 21:21
/ etcanada.com
Dior’s affirmed feminist designer Maria Grazia Chiuri used the male gaze, as reflected in female oil portraits across the centuries, to make a fashion statement on female empowerment and subjugation.
But Tuesday’s feisty ready-to-wear display in Paris, set in the splendid Tuileries Gardens, was also just a beautifully conceived collection — one of the Italian designer’s finest — which served to start Paris Fashion Week on strong creative footing.
As editors busily filed past myriad masterpieces, some expressed relief that the French government ruled the face mask to no longer be obligatory at shows.
Yet despite the glamour and optimistic moments, the conflict in Ukraine was not far from fashion insiders’ minds — the Paris Fashion Federation having offered a rare statement in support of freedom.
Here are some highlights of fall-winter 2022 ready-to-wear shows.
DIOR MAKES HERSTORY
An installation of Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece “Lady with an Ermine” hanging in the entrance led fashion insiders, including popstar Rihanna, model Elle Macpherson and tennis ace Maria Sharapova, inside the venue to discover wall-to-wall paintings.
Though the art at first seemed more at home at the nearby Louvre Museum, on closer inspection the female subjects sported contemporary jarring double eyes and seemed to symbolize a sort of new female vision.
This, the work of Italian contemporary artist Mariella Bettineschi, was Chiuri’s starting block — one she used to explore and deconstruct historic female fashions.
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Corsetry, the 1940s bar jacket (the house signature), as well as sheer layering reimagined the codes of yesteryear.
But this time for